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[stag] Interial light switch question

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My interior light switch only has 6 prongs (in the form of a capital I). of
which only the two are marked 5 and 2. These are the one down the middle.
The
ROM has the switch numbered 1-4 and 7,8

Does anyone have the correct
configuration?

Do the purple live supply wires be conned to the middle ones
(5 and 2)?

Sujit


--------------------------------------------------------------


Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------


A referral
is the best compliment to receive.

RE: [stag] Interial light switch question

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6 prongs is correct, the other two numbers exist only as potential positions
within the switch. There is a diagram in the back of the early ROM that
gives the terminal numbers and switch logic. On my switch, the numbers were
also molded into the plastic (but very hard to see).

From memory, the purple feed is to the terminals at one end (3 & 6). The
center terminals (2 & 5) are the outputs to the lamps, while the terminals
at the other end get switched power from the door switches.

That's for early US cars (like mine), others may vary. Let me know if you
need more, I think I've got scans at home.

-- Randall

RE: [stag] Interial light switch question

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Later cars, possibly LD 40000 onwards, had a different setup with two,
connected, black wires to two of the terminals at one end of the switch
(sorry, away from home so can't identify terminal numbers)

These cars had the single wire DTE (drop to earth) door light switches.

Unfortunately, Triumph never produced an official wiring diagram for this
set up !

Cheers

Julian
On Aug 21, 2013 6:23 PM, "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> 6 prongs is correct, the other two numbers exist only as potential
> positions
> within the switch. There is a diagram in the back of the early ROM that
> gives the terminal numbers and switch logic. On my switch, the numbers
> were
> also molded into the plastic (but very hard to see).
>
> From memory, the purple feed is to the terminals at one end (3 & 6). The
> center terminals (2 & 5) are the outputs to the lamps, while the terminals
> at the other end get switched power from the door switches.
>
> That's for early US cars (like mine), others may vary. Let me know if you
> need more, I think I've got scans at home.
>
> -- Randall

Re: [stag] Interial light switch question

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Hi Randall,
This is clear. Thanks.

Sujit

--------------------------------------------------------------


Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------


A referral
is the best compliment to receive.



________________________________
From:
Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'Sujit Roy' <sujitroy@yahoo.com>; 'slist'
<stag@digest.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 10:23 AM
Subject: RE:
[stag] Interial light switch question


6 prongs is correct, the other two
numbers exist only as potential positions
within the switch. There is a
diagram in the back of the early ROM that
gives the terminal numbers and
switch logic. On my switch, the numbers were
also molded into the plastic
(but very hard to see).

From memory, the purple feed is to the terminals at
one end (3 & 6). The
center terminals (2 & 5) are the outputs to the lamps,
while the terminals
at the other end get switched power from the door
switches.

That's for early US cars (like mine), others may vary. Let me know
if you
need more, I think I've got scans at home.

-- Randall

Re: [stag] Interial light switch question

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See the sketch. This is for 1973 UK Stag; the pin arrangement shown is looking from the top of the switch (as if it is transparent and you see the pins at its bottom).



Regards, Miki.

Re: [stag] Interial light switch question

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took this photo when I took the car apart.
Hope this helps

[stag] Mk1 license plate rubber gasket

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TRF appear to have them listed , but are quite expensive. Are these like NOS
or is someone re-manufacturing them?

Sujit

--------------------------------------------------------------


Sujit Roy
Realtor
Altas Realty,
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy@yahoo.com
Website: [RoysRealty.com]
--------------------------------------------------------------


A referral
is the best compliment to receive.

[stag] Test from mobile. Please ignore.

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Sent from T-Mobile G2 with Google

[stag] Which fuse supplies power to the interior lights?

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My eye sight is getting to me. I am not getting power to either door swtiches and can't read the number of the fuse in the ROM. the same fuse powers the horn boot light and glove box light. Nothing works. All fuses and contact have been checked and cleaned.
Sujit

Sent from T-Mobile G2 with Google

Re: [stag] Which fuse supplies power to the interior lights?

Re: [stag] Which fuse supplies power to the interior lights?

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Use a test lamp to earth from the number 1 fuseway (either end) to see
if you have power at the fuse. This is always live (hot) so you will
not need ignition on.

If you have no power here there is a break in the supply direct from
the battery.

PeterH

Lights now working - [stag] Which fuse supplies power to the interior lights?

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Re-cleaned fuse 1 and now lights are working. Thanks.
________________________________
From: Sujit Roy <sujitroy@yahoo.com>
To:
"stag-digest@digest.net" <stag-digest@digest.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 24,
2013 7:33 PM
Subject: [stag] Which fuse supplies power to the interior lights?
My eye sight is getting to me. I am not getting power to either door swtiches
and can't read the number of the fuse in the ROM. the same fuse powers the
horn boot light and glove box light. Nothing works. All fuses and contact have
been checked and cleaned.
Sujit

Sent from T-Mobile G2 with Google

Air bleed valve to support cooling

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Apologies If this has been asked before

To help cooling I am told that a good thing is to place an air bleed valve at the back of the right bank and pipe it into ( via a "T" pipe connector") either the top radiator hose or the heater hose. Purpose is to allow any air trapped or air blocks in the engine to escape and allow proper filling of coolant.

Said to offer a substantial improvement to stag cooling efficiency!

My questions are.....

Has anyone any experience of this modification ?
Can they explain it in detail as to how it's done and what's required and
Is it any good or is it worthwhile?

Or do I forget it !

PMG
Melbourne - OZ

[stag] Which fuse supplies power to the interior lights?

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On a left hand drive Stag the fuse nearest to rhe center of the car is the 50
amp unswitched fuse.

I had similar problems in my 73 Mark II Stag which
were caused by a bad connection at the rivit that holds the fuse clip onto the
fuse block. This is caused by the shrinkage of the plastic block that the
assembly is attached to. Easy to fix, use a punch to tighten the rivit. The
hard part is that you have to remove the fuse block to do this.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

Re: [stag] Air bleed valve to support cooling

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I haven't heard of this - it may have some merit but I doubt
"substantial improvement"
Much better idea to fit a header tank with 90 deg elbow in top of
radiator and 8mm diam heater hose to the thin pipe cut along the top.

This is not ideal but works.

Ideal is adding a connection for header tank low down on the right
radiator end tank or even the left one.

A Mercedes 190D or 220E is good as it fit the Stag rad cap and has a
reed switch for low level.(Make sure this is present).
It is also see through. However it is not so good in LHD situations.

PeterH

Re: [stag] Mk1 license plate rubber gasket

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I don't know about TRF, but I did order one for my MK I from Paddocks and it was new.

Shane R

Re: [stag] Which fuse supplies power to the interior lights?

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Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> On a left hand drive Stag the fuse nearest to rhe
> center of the car is the 50
> amp unswitched fuse.

LIkely everyone here knows this, but JIC someone else comes by: The 50 amp rating is the "blow instantly" current, while most modern fuses are rated by the current they will carry forever. The difference is roughly 2:1. So if you are using American standard fuses, use an AGC 25 or AGC 30.

Or you can buy reproduction Lucas fuses at most LBC vendors that use the original rating system. The Lucas fuses are slightly smaller than the AGC fuses and fit the clips better, so perhaps that would be best.

It's been a long time since Glenn and Tim (I think it was) put on their very persuasive demo at the VTR Nationals. I wish someone would do it again, but as it happens I won't be going this year. Neither Stag is running and the TR3 got crunched.

PS, I agree completely with Edward about the problem with the fuse block. On my first Stag, practically every position had significant voltage drop going through those contacts. And I've bought several original fuse blocks from eBay that all show the same problem. A very poor design, in my opinion. But adequate I guess, for a part that was only supposed to last 10 years <g>

Wood Section Dimensions Needed

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Hi,

I am working on creating a template for reveneered dashboards and need some measurements please. What I need is the size and exact position of the manual trans gearlever hole in the wooden piece on top of the gearbox with the window switches in it. Position of hole centre and size please.

Thanks

Quick Survey

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Hi,

If I was providing some reveneered dash sections what would be the best option for the radio aperture above the heater controls.

Should it be

1. Completely standard size.

2. Modern stereo size.

3. Uncut for any stereo.

Options 2 and 3 obviously allow for cutting any aperture.

Comments welcomed please.

Thanks

[stag] Re: stag-digest V4 #4451 Coolant Expansion Tank

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The normal expansion bottle on Mk II cars is designed to run at about half
full, and the coolant expands as it gets to normal operating temperature to
about fill the bottle.


On our Mk II car, I fitted a pipe to the blow hole
in the neck of the expansion bottle, fitted an overflow hose to it and down to
a TR6/Stag Mk I overflow bottle which I mounted just below the place where the
expansion bottle sits. I now run the expansion bottle full, and the overflow
bottle about 1/3 full. As the coolant expands it runs into the overflow
bottle, and as it cools down, it gets sucked back.


Very simple, and highly
effective, just like on all the other Triumphs.

Secondly, I took a Stag Mk I
bleed valve - the one normally fitted to the top pipe between radiator and
thermostat housing on Mk I cars - and fitted it to the Mk II radiator filler
plug. That is just about the highest point in the cooling system, and it
bleeds out air very effectively, but only when the engine is hot of course,
meaning pressure in the system. There is no way of filling with coolant after
bleeding, but the overflow bottle takes care of that as the system cools down,
and sucks coolant back, plus a bit extra for that lost in bleeding. At cold,
just top up the overflow bottle as necessary.

I also have the latest Davies
Craig Digital Control unit, temp probe directly in the coolant in the top rad
hose in place of the thermostat, big electric fan, and big electric water
pump. This system allows you to set the desired engine operating temp, and
runs both fan and pump together as necessary depending on ambient conditions.
On switching off, the pump and/or fan will run on as may be necessary for up
to a couple on minutes to avoid a heat sink condition. I removed the
crankshaft fan. The pump is mounted on the bottom rad hose but slightly below
the bottom of the rad core, and the hose run from there to the thermostat
housing is almost the same as OE.

Fantastic system.


Chris Holbrook
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