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Re: What are easy fixes for car not starting after a long hot run?

June 4, 2014, 10:13 pm
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Hi guys;


I have never had a problem with "hot soak" ever - and driven in arguably as hot as these cars ever will be.

One thing I could think of is - mine has the CDS2 (I think - haven't been on here for a while) which are the "smog" ones. The breathers are connected to a charcoal canister originally (from memory) - when/if you remove the breather line to the canister - SOME people don't understand what it does.

This will lead the car to do EXACTLY what you describe. If the breather is blocked/blanked - when you restart the engine - fuel will get pumped into the bowl - but if no breather, THAT will pressurise the bowl - and fuel will be pumped straight through the jet into the carb bore and will continue to do so until bowl fills and needle stops it - by which time engine is flooded.

So try that - lift the piston and look down the carb bore and turn on the key - if fuel pours through the jet - you have blocked/blanked breathers.

Worth a try.

As I said - 48 degrees on the Nullabor and driving all day - gear stick too hot to touch - and NO vapour locks or hot start drama - so you shouldn't NEED to do anything.....
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Re: [stag] Idle Issue

June 4, 2014, 10:17 pm
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Randall - how things come back! Those bowl vents you mention are a transition from venting to different ports - and can hold open.

I removed them - no drama after that - as long as you know what vents to where....
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Re: What are easy fixes for car not starting after a long hot run?

June 4, 2014, 10:24 pm
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Oh - and as another thread from Randall reminded me - easy to get caught out with bowl vents - as they vent to different places depending on throttle plate opening.

Seeing I just "vented" mine - I removed the levers that move a spool valve when the throttles return to idle.......

I understood exactly what went where when I did it - but was 20 years ago - so will check the book.........but essentially from dim dark memory the non smog (old carbs) vents to the port above the bore - so into air cleaner. Smog one vents same place whne throttle open; but then to breather pipe when throttle closed - so when parked vapours go to canister.

From memory I removed mine as they were making idle stick - so essentially it just vents to port into aircleaner like the previous model
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Re: [stag] Oil Pressure Switch

June 4, 2014, 10:29 pm
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Yeah, really over complicated stuff you don't need.

Apart from the normal oil pressure light, it works a solenoid to port vacuum to the float bowls to "suck fuel up" to stop run on.

I drove through the desert - never ran on. You don't need it.
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Re: RE: [stag] Re: What are easy fixes for car not starting after a long hot run?

June 4, 2014, 10:30 pm
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see the other "hot start" thread
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Re: RE: [stag] frozen / stuck mechanical heater controls Resolved

June 4, 2014, 10:59 pm
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When I first got my car the mech valve was always "on" without any linkage - but as there is also a baffle flap that mixes the air - heater worked fine.

I figured "must be a reason for it" - so I got the linkage and removed the valve - replaced the o ring - greased it - and it moved quite freely.

And the heater worked almost exactly the same - EXCEPT was heavier at the lever - and occasionally the outer cable would come away from it's retainer due to the extra friction.

I now have the link disconnected. Heater works well - and on hot days - well - fresh air anyway - but air at outlets for feet is cool enough - any heat is from trans tunnel rather than from heater core - as air doesn't even go through it when set to cool.

I reckon the only reason the mech valve is there is to isolate hot water so aircon has as much help as it can get. I think that air con in a Stag is a waste of time here (too hot) so don't have it - so I am happy to leave my mech valve always on - and just baffle the air.........added bonus heater is always flushed out......
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Re: [stag] Door Puddle Light Switch

June 5, 2014, 4:19 am
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Yeah, it is far more complicated than it needs to be.

From memory, mine was wired so that footwell and puddle on that side door work when THAT door is opened - but when the centre console switch is made - it has multiple change over contacts that puts on both footwells and interior light.

The book wiring diagram appears to show that puddle comes on with door switch - footwells and interior come on from console switch - but they show two terminal door switches with power feed - my car has always had earth return single line door switches..........

What would make sense is for footwell and puddle on side door is opened/ interior only from switch (although footwell may be handy to read a map?)
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Re: RE: [stag] frozen / stuck mechanical heater controls Resolved

June 5, 2014, 10:02 am
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kenhockey Wrote:

> I reckon the only reason the mech valve is there
> is to isolate hot water so aircon has as much
> help as it can get.

Good theory, but the heater is completely different on Stags with A/C. With A/C, the water valve is vacuum operated and gets modulated to (at least in theory) automatically control heat output.

One of my Stags previously had A/C and is now fitted with a switch that only turns the water flow on and off. Very unpleasant to drive in cold weather, IMO, have to keep flipping the switch on and off to maintain anything resembling a reasonable temperature in the cabin. If I don't manage to get the vacuum control working again, I'll at least fit a mechanical valve that can be modulated.
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[stag] Stag Digest Advertisers: regular posting

June 5, 2014, 10:40 pm
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Re: RE: [stag] frozen / stuck mechanical heater controls Resolved

June 6, 2014, 12:56 am
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I should have thought of that - most cars with AC have that vac operated water isolating valve to remove all heat from the housing when AC on......

Most of the local offerings here if non aircon offered either a water always on/ air baffled - OR a tap that limits the hot water flow - so the Stag having both seems superflous. Every car I ever had that had a metal water valve it would always eventually seize or corrode - so a car with the "flap/baffle" was always preferred. As I said - mine ran for 15 years with just the water on all the time and just the baffle controlling it........and it seemed perfect to me.

Spose it isn't always the case. I had an Alfa - that had a baffle - AND a water tap - but the water tap had a capilliary tube that controlled it with a sensor on the heater core. First the capilliary stuffed up - which meant you only had the baffle - but the baffle was like a micrometer without the capilliary - so was either freezing - or ultra hot - finding "warm" was impossible! It then started to leak (as tap was plastic) so had to replace. Cost a fortune - and have to remove ENTIRE dash - and all hidden screws/clips - and no workshop manual. Took an entire day back when I was younger and did things quickly.......

Only had that for a year - GREAT to drive - but nightmare to maintain. One of those cars where brilliant engineers design the engine/suspension/drivetrain etc - then the tea lady designs everything else.

I mean - an engine that revs like mad with little torque - but has a really BAD gear change mechanism - and an accelerator pedal that is so far behind the other pedals it isn't possible to have your foot on it for more than about 15 minutes..........I asked the dealer what people do? He said "they bend them or cut them and re-weld them...." and that is the dealer!!!!

Stag is a dream by comparison. :P
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Overdrive issue

June 6, 2014, 11:50 am
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Hi Folks,

Again the overdrive (J) is doing strange things. Stag is just back on the road after an extensive rebuild and the overdrive operates a little slowly sometimes, but worst of all it has a tendency to engage in 2nd just after being disengaged in 3rd or 4th.

I have yet to check the filters and pistons but if this sounds familiar then any tips are welcome.

Julian
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Re: [stag] Overdrive issue

June 7, 2014, 1:51 am
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Hi Julian,

1st port of call is the inhibitor switch mounted over 3/4 selector rail.
This may be sticky
& not breaking the circuit when changing out of 3 or 4. Check the 12v feed
to o/d which
should be 0v except in 3 or 4. If that is correct then I'm afraid it's down
to filters, pistons
or hydraulic valves.
Regards,
Bob Vince.

----- Original Message -----
From: "J Kuipers" <EmailWitheld>
To: <stag@digest.net>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 7:50 PM
Subject: [stag] Overdrive issue


> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Again the overdrive (J) is doing strange things. Stag is just back on the
> road after an extensive rebuild and the overdrive operates a little slowly
> sometimes, but worst of all it has a tendency to engage in 2nd just after
> being disengaged in 3rd or 4th.
>
> I have yet to check the filters and pistons but if this sounds familiar
> then any tips are welcome.
>
> Julian
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent from TriumphStag.NET [www.triumphstag.net]
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Re: [stag] Overdrive issue

June 7, 2014, 9:27 am
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Bob,
Thank you for that. Had paid more attention today when driving. When warm the OD unit may take a long time to disengage - up to a minute or more. So when switching out of OD and then going to 2nd or even 1st the OD sometimes is still actually engaged. It is drivable but the problems start when one needs to reverse.

Probably the hydraulic side that needs cleaning, thus.

Julian
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Re: [stag] Overdrive issue

June 7, 2014, 9:54 am
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DO NOT, repeat NOT go into reverse if there is any question that overdrive is
still engaged.

You WILL seriously damage the overdrive if you do - certainly if it's J type
and I think A type as well.

Cheers

Julian

Sent from my iPhone

> On 7 Jun 2014, at 17:27, "J Kuipers" <EmailWitheld> wrote:
>
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
>
> Bob,
> Thank you for that. Had paid more attention today when driving. When warm
the OD unit may take a long time to disengage - up to a minute or more. So
when switching out of OD and then going to 2nd or even 1st the OD sometimes is
still actually engaged. It is drivable but the problems start when one needs
to reverse.
>
> Probably the hydraulic side that needs cleaning.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent from TriumphStag.NET [www.triumphstag.net]
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Re: [stag] Overdrive issue

June 7, 2014, 1:09 pm
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I think you may be right Julian. Solenoid control valve, relief valve &
control orifice
are the most likely suspects, though I'm a bit puzzled as to why it's worse
when hot.
Julian is spot on regarding reversing; it will feel a bit springy, then
there will be a big bang!

Regards, Bob.
----- Original Message -----
From: "J Kuipers" <EmailWitheld>
To: <stag@digest.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2014 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: [stag] Overdrive issue


> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Bob,
> Thank you for that. Had paid more attention today when driving. When
> warm the OD unit may take a long time to disengage - up to a minute or
> more. So when switching out of OD and then going to 2nd or even 1st the
> OD sometimes is still actually engaged. It is drivable but the problems
> start when one needs to reverse.
>
> Probably the hydraulic side that needs cleaning.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent from TriumphStag.NET [www.triumphstag.net]
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Re: [stag] Overdrive issue

June 7, 2014, 2:09 pm
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Julian,
Thank you for the warning in regards to reversing. I did know that so I was worried it might be engaged when needing to reverse. So far the situation has not yet arisen.

Julian
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Re: [stag] Overdrive issue

June 7, 2014, 3:10 pm
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Sorry if it was teaching grandmother to suck eggs but I hope it's better to
know twice rather than not at all !

I so, so nearly did it once it's something that always sets my alarm bells
ringing !

Cheers

Julian

Sent from my iPhone

> On 7 Jun 2014, at 22:09, "J Kuipers" <EmailWitheld> wrote:
>
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
>
> Julian,
> Thank you for the warning in regards to reversing. I did know that so I was
worried it might be engaged when needing to reverse. So far the situation has
not yet arisen.
>
> Julian
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent from TriumphStag.NET [www.triumphstag.net]
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[stag] Is my New Coil destroyed? Electrical Wizards needed again

June 7, 2014, 3:20 pm
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My stag broke down 60 miles from base with a damaged coil.
Its over 20 years and 95000 miles so I suppose it was worn out.

The roadside recovery service replaced the coil with a Bosch branded
product and at ten miles from base the car started to misfire on
pulling away from junctions.

The car stopped 50 yards from base and refused to start for an hour.

Then it fired up and went the last 50 yards no problem.

I have now discovered the Roadside recovery technician, who I couldn't
fault for attitude, custoemr service, knowledge and diagnosis wired
the new Bosch coil directly into 12 volts, that is the Ballast was
bypassed!!

So, is my new coil now damaged (the repair is under 12 months
warranty), or did it just get hot with excess voltage and heat
degrades the performance, meaning rewiring it correctly will mean it
is OK?

PeterH
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Re: [stag] Is my New Coil destroyed? Electrical Wizards needed again

June 7, 2014, 6:46 pm
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Ignition coils suitable for the Stag are not easily available these days so the possibility is tat you got a coil that may not be correct even if wired via the bypass resistor. To find out, you need a good digital multimeter with a 200 Ohm resistance measuring range and check what the resistance is between the coil + and - terminals. Ignition coils evolved in the following sequence (approximate resistances):

1. 3 Ohm resistance - Contact Points, no Ballast
2. 1.5 Ohm resistance - Contact Points + Ballast
3. 0.5 Ohm resistance - Electronic Ignition only

Contact points in cases 1. and 2. are often replaced with aftermarket electronic ignition designed for the said coil resistances (do you still have points or electronic?). The coil you got may be the third type i.e. 0.5 or 0.8 Ohm. If this is the case, then the problem you had was because the coil overheated (probably not damaged). At the same time, your contact points "burned" (if you have points) or your ignition module overheated (if you converted to electronic).

So, you need to get the right coil (1.5 Ohm) and replace the points. If you have electronic ignition, try it with the correct coil and, if it runs fine, you are lucky that the unit was not damaged.

Miki
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Re: [stag] Is my New Coil destroyed? Electrical Wizards needed again

June 8, 2014, 4:03 am
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Miki
the New coil is 1.5 OHM for ballast resistor.
Peter H
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